An expat in Vancouver first impressions: Driving

On a daily basis, I am surprised how difficult it is to drive here.

Buses have the right of way at almost any time. That extends to when the driver feels like merging into your lane with no warning. Just move over and watch out for the oncoming traffic. The first month or so here I just thought all bus drivers were rude and pushy, but it turns out I was in their way.

It is impressive that the city of Vancouver long ago went to considerable expense and trouble to put in bike lanes and bike-only corridors, as part of its goal to be a super-green city. Something had to give though, and it was convenience for drivers. Sometimes the inconvenience is huge, like when you are forced to drive a mile or more past a bike corridor where a legal turn used to be. A commitment to sustainability is one reason Vancouver appealed to me, but using extra gas and spewing more emissions from having to drive around a bike lane strikes me as counterproductive.

(Now, regarding the cyclists. Just this morning on my walk with the dog I remarked to myself what a beautiful thing it was to behold all the cyclists making their commute, in all modes of garb and gear. But can I also tell you that on many occasions these cyclists have come within an inch of running me over? They don’t beep, they don’t warn, they just zoom ahead as if they are entitled to mow down anything in their path. I agree there should be more of them than cars on the road, in an ideal world. They are indeed the more virtuous if you count Middle East oil dependency and pollution as vices. But give a pedestrian a break.)

There are a lot of risk-takers on the road. Usually these have noisy luxury cars and irritatingly seem to be able to behave with impunity, darting in and out of lanes, trying for that elusive head of the line, or to show they are different from the rest of us drivers in not putting up with the ordinary pace of life. They honk, yell out of windows and gesture profanely. Where did all those nice Canadians go?

At most busy intersections where left-hand turns are legal, there are no left-hand turn green lights. Picture this: you are in the far left lane of a five lane street at a major intersection, say Broadway and Cambie. You edge out as far as you can into traffic so that at the first window of opportunity you can speed across. That window never, ever arrives while the green light shines. What you quickly learn is that you have to speed across the intersection the instant the light turns red, in face of two lanes of rushing traffic, and complete the turn without hitting any of the pedestrians who are invariably making their way across the street. Vancouver pedestrians, by the way, are chill. They never hustle along, even when cars are bearing down on them. So usually when undertaking this maneuver you can expect to stop mid-intersection and be subjected to nerve-wracking honking or worse.

Parking places are also scarce. We’ve actually given up on a number of occasions and gone back home grumpy from an attempt to go out on the town in an area without parking garages. And parking is expensive, up to one dollar every quarter hour. The message from the city is: use public transportation. Well, that’s expensive too, $2.50-$3.50 a ride. So in fact there are lots of cars on the road and competition for parking is stiff.

I’ve mentioned the car honking a few times. Yes, Vancouverites use the horn. There’s the “New York Minute” which you might have heard of? Vancouver has one too.

For some reason, the predominant color of clothing is black. Black from head to toe. So what, right? Well, it rains a lot here. That means on those many winter nights when it is overcast or raining, there is no star or moon light. There is poor depth of field. Shadows are deep, and visibility is poor. And suddently, there’s a person standing in the road you are in the middle of crossing.

Just as your stomach settles down from the adrenaline rush brought on by slamming on the brakes, out of nowhere a silent cyclist stealthily enters your peripheral vision and a moment of sheer panic hits and you slam on the brakes and CURSE.

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An expat in Vancouver first impressions: autumn

Here’s where it starts. The rain. It seems impossible when under the summer blanket of blue sky and brilliant sun to even imagine the day when it all turns grey and wet…and stays that way for a long, long time.

But first, the leaves turn. There are plenty of Canadian maples to turn once shady streets ablaze. The squashes and pumpkins appear at the green grocers and fallen chestnuts crush underfoot. Hockey is on everyone’s minds.

10th Street in Mount Pleasant

Because this is a walking city, one in which the inhabitants are undeterred by rain, hail or snow, umbrellas and rubber boots are everywhere. (In Portland, you see much less of those, because people generally drive longer distances than a few blocks.)

Today was a typical fall day: balmy morning, then rain, then heavier rain, followed by 90 km winds and hail, the sky drying and opening to let in patches of blue and sun, then suddenly it was dark.

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An expat in Vancouver first impressions: health care revisited

Coming from a system of entirely private health care, I can’t help but notice where a public health system like Canada’s chooses to save money. The buildings are plain and institutional, not jolly environments like US hospitals, clinics and medical offices try painfully to be in the US. Our family doctor’s office had broad windows to let in natural light, rosy painted walls, a gas fireplace, a faux living room with plush seating and decorative baskets stuffed with popular magazines. Our orthodontist had a TV room with DVDs of cartoons and children’s games. It’s the practice, not the payer (at least not in increased prices compared to other docs), that funds the interior decor and it’s done because there is open competition for patients. It all seems a bit much and overtly commercial to me because after all, we are talking about health care, not shopping. But when you are sitting in such an office and waiting your turn to see the doctor, it sure beats the alternative.

Which is what you find in Vancouver. There is no money wasted on environments. As it should be when trade-offs are necessary to cover everyone’s health care. But there is one thing that astounded me when I visited St. Paul’s Hospital this week. The works of the local artists on display were stunning.

Local artist's watercolor at St. Paul's Hospital

There was even a certified Picasso print.

Picasso print

I found myself stopping in my tracks to gaze on the works lining the dim, dingy hallways. The people sitting glumly (it was 7:30am I must add) didn’t seem to be touched by them but perhaps indirectly they were.

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An expat in Vancouver first impressions Summer cont’d.

On Lynn Creek

After that unusually rainy and cold early summer, it pains me to consider that we might only have a few weeks left of 23c degree weather and clear blue skies. However, we did make the best of August, and I now have a list of my favorite summer day outings to reprise next year, when I hope we can add more.

Lynn Creek. A fortune cookie once told me, “You will be splashed by the cool waters of contentment.” I waited a long time for that to come true, but it finally did right here. There is a lovely 2km r-t flat walk along the rushing, noisy creek under shade of the forest, and a hike up the steep, rocky path through the forest for an excellent workout, but if all you want is to lie lizardly in the sun with an occasional wade in the water, go no further than the picnic area or just beyond the bridge. There we were, just today, sitting on the dry, warm boulders dipping our legs in the bracing water, letting the dog think he could retrieve rocks.

On Lynn Creek

Sunshine Coast. A popular TV series was filmed in Gibson’s, the first stop after the ferry landing, and it is easy to see why. The setting is small-town, with a grand view from every vantage point. To top it off, the pub has very satisfying fish and chips for post-kayaking or boating refreshment. The rest of the coast is even more seductive but really not possible for a day trip from Vancouver.

Monk’s. Even if I have never eaten here, I always look forward to returning. The huge deck over False Creek, where small pleasure boats anchor, with the not so distant view of people enjoying the banks on the opposite shore, and the to-and-fro of the mini-ferries, kayakers and paddle boarders, is the perfect place for a summer evening pint.

False Creek, with the mini-ferry

Steveston Farmers Market. I’ve tried many of the markets and this one is the most colorful, while offering the most tidy and complete selection of goods. It is also situated in a farm delta, so on the drive there and back you can stop at produce stands the line the road. We get there early to avoid the large crowds that arrive around lunchtime in the historic, quaint town to shop, go whale watching and buy fish off the boat at the docks. After hauling our market goods back to the car, we walk the dike along the Fraser River.

10th Street

10th Street Heritage Houses. We walk the dog along this street where one man has left his personal stamp on one essential block off Manitoba. There is no financial incentive for restoring landmark buildings in the city, and in fact you could argue quite persuasively that it makes most financial sense to tear down free standing homes to make way for multi-tenant condos. And yet, what a terrible aesthetic cost that would be. This block makes that evident, as house after house delights in its period detail thanks to one man who presciently bought up a slew of the wooden houses many years ago and restored them all. As we make our way down the street under the summer tree canopy and in the cool shade, I imagine ladies in pinafores and broad hats swishing down the sidewalk or sitting on porches sipping fresh lemonade.

10th Street Heritage House

Vanier dog beach. If only because it makes the dog so happy, or because of the joy we experience watching him “doggedly” swim through waves to retrieve his orange floating ball, we frequent this popular spot several times a week.

Vanier dog beach

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An expat in Vancouver first impressions Summer

Mt. Pleasant summer flowers

You have to experience full on summer in Vancouver to understand why its inhabitants are so faithful to the city through ten months of rain.

It is glorious.

Rumor has it that no one in Vancouver has a full-time job. Certainly I’ve heard many people complain that their M.D.s and naturopaths are only available a few days a week, because they are busy living “real life” on the other days. Freelancers, who like me presumably like having control over their work hours, are plentiful here. And on a sunny day, there’s an unmistakeable hustle and bustle in the streets starting in the early afternoon as people get home from work to pick up their outdoor gear: kayaks, paddleboards, rowboats, skis, snowshoes, walking sticks, roller blades, bikes and running outfits and split off in various directions toward shore or mountain.

In the summer however it really feels like the city is on holiday most of the time. The beaches are full, the pubs spill out into side patios, boats fill the creeks and inlets. It is one huge playground.

players on Jericho Beach in July

My favorite way to spend a weekday is: an early walk with the dog in the cool morning air and warm first rays of sun, followed by a lunch time stroll to the park, a canoe ride in Fraser Creek or a walk through Queen Elizabeth Park, capped by a stroll along the seawall at dusk.

And there have to be a few nights on Kits Beach to capture the sunset.

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