Three years ago I participated in a photo workshop in a part of Italy then unknown to me, Basilicata. I came away impressed. This January, I returned.

Largely neglected by the Italian government for decades, the result is that some parts of Basilicata still show traces of old Europe. They won’t last much longer. Sadly, this beautiful landscape dotted with ancient hill towns is being depopulated. Perhaps the young people who are departing will be replaced by immigrants, who would bring much-needed life back to the deserted places, even if altering them into something Italy hasn’t seen before. As the world turns.

Some communities are valiantly trying hard to stay intact. Around the religious holiday of Saint Anthony the Abbot, several of them host traditional festivals based on ancient pagan winter rites mixed with Christian celebrations. Strange costumes, parades in the dark, and a high mass offer the means for the entire town to come together.

Two short flights from Nice put me there, in a vastly contrasting environment to my usual. What a happy place it is for me. Friendly people, savory and healthy food, great local wine, clean air and a photographer’s delight. I hope to make one more trip a year from now.