Two months after the cast came off my wrist, I have about 40 percent use of the hand and a poor grip. But I can type a lot more easily. Not so much that I am going to waste my effort here to moan about the state of French politics, other than to say it follows a disturbing pattern seen elsewhere.
Despite a painful, inoperative upper left limb, I moved in mid-September with a little help from my friends. I like my new neighborhood of L’Éveché, not just for the conveniences, but for the Gallic liveliness. It is much less touristy than Fleurs/Gambetta where I lived before, which incidentally has been labeled “Little America” by some recent arrivals.
Despite the many gorgeous old buildings in my new part of town, it is a bit less posh and inhabited by more regular folks, a mix of middle and working class, and students. The cafes, restaurants and shops on the main street, always bustling with locals, make for a vibrant atmosphere. Some old brasseries, rapidly disappearing in central Nice, are still thriving as local haunts with cut rate prices and classic menus. A big daily market at the Place Charles De Gaulle and a one of those plush-seat movie theaters are an eight minute walk from me and closer there is everything else: supermarkets, pharmacies (in France there’s one every block), banks, a couple of post offices, butchers, cheesemongers, hardware stores, tradespeople, “ambulanciers” (ambulance drivers), nurse offices (to call when requiring a home visit).
Where I live is in a sub-neighborhood tucked between two boulevards known for its private late -19th century villas. Some of these have been converted into apartments but some remain family homes with large gardens. From my fifth floor vantage point, I look over their red tiled roofs.
My balcony has a “vue dégagée” with no tall buildings directly in front, where I can see the sun rise over Mont Boron. I particularly like the framed view from the bathroom window.
It is a residential area with no businesses for a few blocks around so it is quiet for a big city. Of course, there are bland modern structures too, and I live in one. No more the Belle Epoque charm of my prior dwelling. But I am decorating it in a colorful, non-stuffy spirit to make it my happy place. It starts with a reupholstered sofa in a bright coral hue, dubbed “the dopamine couch” by my daughter.
The downside of the area for most expats is its distance from the sea. Seven stops on the tram is a real deterrent. That also means you get more for your money up here. After years of being a short walk from the Promenade, I was ready to trade the proximity to the Med for a more fully French experience.
The other week I went for an evening drink with friends, passing by a packed nearby café where people were sitting outdoors watching — with great enthusiasm —a soccer game playing on a large screen. I know where I’ll be enjoying the next World Cup.
kmazz 
What lovely views! And I like the idea of moving more firmly into “local” territory, away from some of the “touristy” spots…
It’s a nice change, Kana.
Love it and can’t wait to see it in person! Well done Kathleen!
What a lovely post and celebration of your new home and neighborhood!
Thanks, Maridel.
Good morning Kathleen, from Ōhope Beach, NZ – where we have come to escape the cold, dark, rainy November days of Vancouver – days you may recall but no doubt do not miss…
I’m so sorry to hear your wrist is not healing as well or as quickly as hoped. Perhaps it will improve with time? I hope you are not left-handed?
At least this injury didn’t prevent you from going ahead with your brilliant plan to move to this wonderful, vibrant area. Soon, as you manouevre around the markets, shops, cafes and restaurants, developing relationships with the folk running the stalls, behind the counters, or placing un verre de vin on your table, you will find yourself a part of the community. It brings to mind the daily life of the admirable woman in Calle Malaga which we enjoyed at VIFF in October. You are an avid film-goer as I recall. Perhaps you saw this?
It looks as though you have found the perfect flat with those fabulous views over the lovely old buildings to the distant hills – yet in a relatively new structure, with modern amenities and presumably fewer repairs. And an elevator too? Well done!
Wishing continuing happiness in your new “happy place”.
Hugs from us,
Pat & Ian, who is currently out for his pre-breakfast hour-long walk. This is generally on the beach but, as it is high tide this morning, he is on dry land somewhere today…
so nice to hear from you, Patricia. We never made it to NZ but it must be lovely this time of year. You are right, I do not miss Cascadia winters. Summers, however…Much love.
I’m so glad tosses you havesesttled in a more likable place, Kathleen.
I need to. up date you ion my email address. My last one was compromised so I had create. a new one for you and others to update: inwarway77@gmail.com.
A question of you, if I may. I’m thinking of that wonderful array of B&W photos of women on a bus you created some time ago. Was the finished project just as you created them, or did you edit them? If so, what software did you use. They remain as such a stunning memory that I want to mimic your creative genius.
I hope you have a joyous holiday season.
Warm regards,
Jim Young
Hi, Jim. I took them in Lisbon with an iPhone 6 and edited them in Snapseed. I’m glad you still remember them. I have a few more recent ones that I will send to your new email address.
Sorry for the typos. New email address is inwardway77@gmail.com
Jim