Les extrêmes

Through the thick air from my open windows, I hear seagulls screech, a newborn’s wail, the blasting of music from someone’s car and occasional outbursts from the denizens of the corner cafe behind my building. During the relative quiet of night, a not so distant train rattles the rails. Ah, the suave sounds of summer.

Last week we had our annual scirocco, the hot, sticky wind from North Africa that dropped dustings of sand everywhere for two days and roiled the sea. It is spent now, and our mornings and evenings this week will be cool. Still, I have my seasonal getaway to less extreme climes coming up in early July, hopefully before the canicules begin.

This summer I will be keeping a closer watch than usual on what transpires in my adopted country. President Macron has called a surprise election for the country’s legislative body, the Assemblée Nationale, and France is confronting, for the first time in modern history, a stark electoral choice of dangerous extremes.

Macron’s own centrist party is way behind in the polls, with the far right, anti-Europe, anti-immigration, socially intolerant party of strident anti-semitic origins, the Rassemblement Nationale, leading with a sizable margin. Just behind is a brand new alliance of leftist parties, the Nouveau Front Populaire, with the most visible of its leaders, Jean-Luc Mélenchon, an anti-semite with autocratic, Stalinist tendencies. What is at stake should either of these political movements assume leadership? For starters, a functioning government, international confidence in the French economy (a pillar of the European Union), the euro, support for Ukraine and Israel, and peace of mind for France’s minorities. Also, democracy.

No one really understands what Macron was thinking when he took this step, and he is now generally viewed as impulsive, hubristic and prone to unilateral decisions. These are the faults that have made him widely unpopular (even though French Presidents are always widely unpopular no matter what). Whatever the results of the two-phased elections on June 30 and July 7, Macron will remain President until his term expires in April, 2027. But he will rule with little power in a set up the French call “cohabitation” with a Prime Minister from whichever of the extremes wins a majority.

I have heard from Jewish French friends that they will leave France if 28-year old leader, Jordan Bardella of Le Pen’s National Rally or the 72-year old Mélenchon become Prime Minister. The fear is that anti-semitism, on a sharp rise in France especially since war in Gaza, will be normalized.

One French friend’s son who was planning to repatriate to France has put those plans on hold.

I’ve also heard that some Americans in the process of buying property have reconsidered.

The question however is this: where is there a clear alternative? It is not a pleasant question to contemplate given a rising tide of right wing populism all over the world. Time was, you could seek to emigrate to the U.S.

One small hope is that Nouveau Front Populaire will have the good sense to nominate a moderate candidate for Prime Minister and steer clear of Mélenchon and his ilk, to draw a majority from the few Macronistes still left and voters reluctant to vote for extremists of either side. The left is unlikely to be anti-democratic, even if its economic plans threaten chaos. With the right, France would get both.

Whatever the outcome, it is clear that people of non-French nationality, including multiple nationals, are increasingly being perceived as a threat to national identity.

For a shard of hope, I look to the UK. Eight years ago, a majority chose the Tories to get the UK out of the European Union. Today, a very large majority accepts that leaving the EU was a big mistake, and the Tories are on their way to electoral defeat. I suppose it is possible that at the end of Macron’s term, his gambit will have worked. After two and a half years of whichever side takes over the legislature, the French might be ready to move back to the center. It’s all I’ve got.

Posted in expat, expat in France, expat life, France, French elections, Nice, France | 6 Comments

Le Ciné-Club

Recently, I’ve been spending Tuesday mornings in a French conversation class styled as a discussion group for cinéphiles. That is a blending of two of my favorite worlds. I am my happiest talking about films for hours on end, but not having a contemporary French vocabulary geared to cinema has been frustrating.

Knowing the translations of elements of film, such as “director” or “actor” or “production” was not the issue. Being able to give a hot take using common parlance is what eluded me.

I could always easily state my opinion that a film was bad, simply by saying “mauvais.” How boring. It is so much more fun to say “C’est nul” or “Une ineptie absolu.” If the film is really bad I can now use my new favorite expression: “C’est un purge” (add vomit emoji).

Like that one, many of the terms are self-explanatory to an English speaker. You could say a film was made without any real effort, or “téléphoné.” Or, “banal” or “médiocre.” An example for “refreshingly original” could be in “The Zone of Interest est audacieux et innovant.”

Did you love a film? You adored it. Adoré! Better yet, you could use a hundreds-year old term stemming from the word “kif” or cannabis, meaning pleasure. Alors, you would say “j’ai bien kiffé Perfect Days.”

To speak colloquially, you can also drop the “très” when saying “very much,” as in “très bien.” It is perhaps an Anglicanism, but substituting “hyper” (EEE-Pear) usually works, as in “hyper deçu par Napoleon” (“very disappointed”).

Of course, the hot take is just the start. There’s a lot more to providing a critique and advancing an argument on film than a few choice words. And that is harder to do, while profoundly more satisfying. And I am getting better!

Happy Easter (Pâques) for those who celebrate. The bakeries and chocolate shops here are loaded with irresistible goodies and lovely decorations.

Posted in expat, expat in France, expat life, film, France, Nice, France | Tagged | 4 Comments

Napoli

After many years, last week I returned to Naples, Italy. Our stopover a couple of decades ago didn’t inspire a speedy return. However, there were Caravaggios I had missed, and the more recent excavations at Pompeii intrigued me. So, off I went, with a friend and my daughter, just as the holidays ended and hotel prices fell.

Naples is cleaner, safer and more visitor friendly than ever. While I wouldn’t call it a model of urban hygiene, the city is now getting the trash picked up. The streets are full of locals merrily shopping, conversing and munching on the famous Neapolitan street food (fried things). The most dangerous neighborhood of yore is now bustling with restaurants and souvenir shops. When there are tourist fortunes to be made, petty crime is less of a draw, I was told by a taxi driver.

The Pompeii frescoes in the MANN were my top priority. These finely, delicately painted images of gods, myths and botanical themes decorated virtually all the walls in the homes of wealthy Romans. Excavated from under volcanic mud and ash and two thousand years old!

Artemis
Medea contemplating the murder of her children

We saw two of the late Caravaggios sited in Naples, but sadly the third was on loan to the Louvre along with an Artemisia Gentileschi and other treasures from the Capodimonte museum. This one however was glorious:

The Martyrdom of St. Ursula, by Caravaggio

Arriving in Pompeii on a clear, sunny winter day, with the lethal Mount Vesuvius in view and a complete absence of crowds is a dream come true. For the first hour, we were all alone, following our self-guided tour of must-sees, imagining the vibrancy of the 20,000-person port city in 79 AD and remarking on chariot ruts in the paving stones, the surprising number of street eateries and large sizes of some of the homes. Much was new to me. For example, the House of the Vettii has only been completely open to visitors since 2023.

Aphrodite on the half shell, Pompeii
A decorative panel, Pompeii
One of many delightful everyday scenes, Pompeii

Of course, there was also the world famous Neapolitan pizza to be experienced. What I discovered is that the specialty has evolved to gourmet levels. Perhaps this has to do with the fact that good Neapolitan pizza can now be found almost everywhere in the world. A stint with a good pizzaiolo tutor, a locally made pizza oven and some firewood, and voila. So now you will find pizzerias in the Michelin food guide where every menu item is a baroque version of the simple — but always unforgettable –Margherita. Always, there’s that miraculous dough.

Margherita pizza in Naples
Gourmet Neapolitan pizza of saffron cream, yellow and purple cauliflower, fried capers, shredded escarole

The biggest surprise, and the most endearing part of Naples for me, however, were the people. Such kindness, generosity and authenticity. Our Pompeii driver bought us Frittalini at his favorite vendor because he was aghast that we hadn’t tried it. At a coffee shop, in addition to selling us an orziera the owner treated us to a macchiato, a caffe ginseng and an orzo so that we could sample his wares. When I stopped to take photos of people, I was welcomed to it.

Our driver with the Frittalini he offered us

I’d return just for some more of that! But I imagine in another few years Naples will be even more attractive. The imposing buildings raised by the Bourbon and Savoy kings will be restored, the graffiti painted over, the pizza ever more surprising. And of course, there is that other Caravaggio to see.

Posted in Caravaggio, expat, expat in France, expat life, Italy, Naples, Italy, Napoli, Pompeii, Travel | Tagged , , , , | 14 Comments

Le Grinch

Here we are again. Another holiday season. Another year’s end.

If I’m honest, I have to say that I have become a massive grinch around Christmas. I just don’t care for it. I was in Milan, Italy for some research last week and gagged on the out of control consumerism. People, we have major wars underway where thousands of innocents are being killed and which threaten the stability of the world while despots are suppressing freedom all over. How can anyone think about shopping? I don’t even know what “Christmas Spirit” we are supposed to feel at this point.

Here’s the Gucci “Christmas Tree” in the Milano Galleria. Disgusting.

Gucci Christmas Tree in the Galleria in Milan, Italy

There’s a faux Christmas market here in Nice which wouldn’t be so bad — it is something for non-grinch families to enjoy — if the horrendous versions of holiday staples weren’t blasting at such a high decibel and weren’t accompanied by the stink of cotton candy. Affreux!

That’s not to say there aren’t reasons to celebrate the season. I am lucky enough to have generous friends with whom to share festivities.

My local traiteur does such a great job that I am going to pick up a couple of traditional French Christmas dishes there for the various potlucks and dispense with even a thought of cooking. In the south of France the weather is likely to be quite obliging for a glorious Christmas and New Year’s walk on the Promenade. All my loved ones are happy and healthy and that gives me serenity.

And I have to admit some of the decorations are lovely.

Taking photos of the Christmas tree

It is possible my grinchiness is particularly strong this year because I won’t be with family, I will admit. Still. Parting thought: How about gifting humanitarian organizations that at least try to ease the suffering of the war torn with food, clothes and medicine? C’mon Gucci, take a stand for humanity.

Happy holidays and new year, everyone.

Posted in christmas, expat, expat in France, expat life, France, Holidays, Nice, France | Tagged , , , | 12 Comments

Bien Bouffer

My favorite seasons on the Côte d’Azur are upon us: late autumn and winter. As the days shorten, I like to start them with a brisk walk on the Promenade, sometimes early enough to catch a sunrise. It is my moment of zen.

After the peripatetic pace of 2022-2023, I am settling down for a few months and catching up on a few photographic and administrative projects. Parts afar will have to wait. Itchy feet will have to be endured.

I notice some improvements as I re-explore my city. Mayor Estrosi has embarked on a major endeavor to “green” the city center, restrict cars and widen sidewalks, and now much of it is less noisy and more welcoming to pedestrians. This article in The Economist on the Mayor’s efforts to secure, enrich and beautify the city rings absolutely true.

The other side to this story is the food, although I doubt Estrosi can claim any credit. The South of France was never regarded by gourmets as particularly strong on cuisine. When I would ask Italian residents of Nice where to find good restaurants, they’d reply, “There aren’t any.” They were right.

Menus are generally limited and not that interesting, and the traditions of the South are not as attractive or luxe as those of the rest of France. The standard of quality was regrettably low. One can only bouffer on so much mediocre Salade Niçoise, Soupe de Poisson and Pissaladière before tiring of the stuff. For a while, getting away from it meant reverting to the global Gen Z “cuisine” of brunch, avocado toast and poke bowls. Not bad at all, but not a reason to get excited about eating in Nice.

Ah, but now! Nice has a slew of enticing Michelin-starred or cited restaurants, and maybe, at last, a food culture on the rise. My favorite for contemporary French has always been Les Sens, but now there are L’Alchimie and Racines to vie for my palate, if I don’t venture into the Peruvian Yose or the Japanese Onaka. The Zielinska bakery was voted the best in France a couple of years ago. New wine bars like Les Oeillets and Rouge are enlivening the wine drinking tradition (thankfully, as wine consumption in France keeps dropping as more kids grow up addicted to soda). Having lived in Portland, Oregon during its emergence as a food destination, I am hopeful these new eateries portend a similar trend.

A new French film, the country’s admission for the Best Foreign Film Oscar, “The Taste of Things,” celebrates the extraordinary French culinary tradition. Sadly, as in Italy, the days when you could eat anywhere and it would be fantastic are long gone. The new reality is knowing where to go. Now I do.

Posted in Nice, France | Tagged , , , , , , | 6 Comments