Le Bain de Noël

For however long, Nice has been the site of an annual Christmas jump in the Mediterranean Sea. Today was the first time I attended, as an observer.

It was noisier than I had expected, with a DJ and announcer on the beach to get everyone pumped. At first I wondered if I was at the right place. Then suddenly, a dynamic crowd appeared with minutes to go before the festivities began at 11:15am. As a Type A American, of course I had arrived an hour earlier to get my place. Well, forget that. One just can’t hold back an enthusiastic crowd of swimmers, families and the general spectators.

First came the Christmas kayakers making a smooth line along the ocean waves.

Then somewhere out of my eyesight the Christmas pom pom girls danced. Then, the Christmas pointus, the small wooden painted fishing boats of yore, slid into the watery procession. Finally, Santa blew his horn and the first of two rounds of official swimmers dove in and made a quick loop before emerging, shivering. After the second, the public baignade began with the masses (so to speak) taking their turn, all with Christmas hats on to stay a bit warm.

The water temperature was no more than 6C/61F, while outside it was 13C/55F, but very sunny and relatively wind-free. All along the coast there are similar events in the days leading up to December 25, and there might be a New Year’s swim too, which I should inquire about.

There are many holiday events in Nice, for all age groups, from the Christmas market and ferris wheel, to the church concerts and dinners sponsored by various social groups. It’s a festive place to be this time of year. And there is no snow to shovel.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all.

Posted in christmas, expat, expat in France, expat life, France, French Riviera, Holidays, le bain de noël, Nice, France, Noël | Tagged , , , | 7 Comments

L’Accueil des Villes Françaises (AVF)

In cities all over France, there is a variant of the US Welcome Wagons called the AVF. They are wonderful volunteer-led associations that create programming in culture, sport, language and technology with the aim of bringing newcomers and more long-term residents together. They are unparalleled as source of local information and new friends.

After several years living in Nice, I decided to join to have more opportunities to speak French at length, meet more Niçois of varying nationalities and maybe learn something new about my home city. My first AVF outing was last week, to a truffle farm in the rolling hills outside Nice. And what a delightful day it was.

Thanks to an offer of “covoiturage” (ride-sharing), I joined a French couple, an Italian man and a single French woman in a small car for the 45 minute ride. Every time the French driver pulled a less-than-legal maneuver to negotiate the twisty road, the Italian raised his fists and exclaimed “Bravo!” It happened four times, so his day was made.

Mine was made when we arrived at the farm and I saw the truffle dogs. They were of the Lagotto Romagnolo breed and peerless sniffers and diggers. After almost going extinct, these Italian water dogs were bred to work as hunters of all kinds, and have now become a very popular breed all over Europe.

The truffle farm above Nice, France

The farmer told us all about truffles: how to farm them, how the quality varies and how the dogs are trained. Then he led us down a few paths among the planted oak trees and let the dogs sniff the earth to find and dig out the fungus. By the end of the stroll, the farmer had a solid dozen of truffles in his pockets. He was supposed to allow us to purchase the product, but that never happened. They must have been good ones, and therefore easy to sell at top euro. I don’t like black truffles myself so I did not mind. What I appreciated was the chance to give the dogs some “câlins,” or cuddles after their labor.

So impressed was I by the AVF experience that I joined the ranks of the bénévoles (volunteers). Starting January 2025, I will host a monthly photography critique for beginners. So far, ten members have signed up, double the number I was aiming for. Now I have to count on my French to be sufficient to the task so as not to embarrass myself.

Posted in expat, expat in France, expat life, France, Le Haut Pays, Nice, France, rural France | Tagged , , | 9 Comments

La Carte De Resident de Longue Durée

A day I thought would never arrive was announced by text from the Préfecture of Nice.

“Your resident card is ready for pick up. Tax to pay: 225.”

While in 2024 I had become eligible to apply for a ten-year visa, the Préfecture was not obligated to give me one, nor do they let you know their decision in advance. So I didn’t know if I’d get the annual renewal, or the coveted “longue durée.” The suspense, the agony, during my three-hour wait in line! You might be able to imagine my giddiness when I saw my card’s expiration date of 2034.

What this milestone means is that I am spared the torment of waiting for the annual renewal application to be processed, usually very slowly to the point that the current visa expires and you end up being close to hors regles, or outside the law. Without a valid visa one cannot travel outside of France.

The Longue Durée status offers more options to an expat. I can work (don’t want to). I can move to some of the other EU countries (don’t want to) without losing my French residency. The only thing I can’t do is vote.

In addition, now that I have lived here and filed taxes five years in a row I am free to apply for French citizenship. Or, I can wait until 2034 and apply for a permanent residency card.

Ah, but doesn’t it seem an exercise in futility to imagine where we will want to be in ten years? Maybe we can see where we are headed, with bombs being planted on cargo planes, TikTok elections, the rise of an Eastern Axis of evil, democracy’s decline, European governments in crisis. Yes, yes, there is trouble in paradise.

This week, at a lecture on the European Union, I heard the term “civil war” referred to as an outcome to deepening divisions in France (fomented by the usual parties). I was reminded that a French farmer commits suicide every two days. The have-nots are being pushed to the point of nothing left to lose.

France’s Left wing coalition is fracturing, giving the Far Right a path to ascendancy. Marine Le Pen might eventually be barred by law from running for President in 2027, but her young, dashing, social media savvy protégé Jordan Bardella could win. The incumbents certainly aren’t inspiring the electorate.

That is, thankfully, two more years away. All we need is a miracle.

A walk along the French Riviera

Posted in expat, expat in France, expat life, France, French elections | Tagged , , | 13 Comments

La Salle de Sport

For months now, I’ve been fighting the morning dread, the inertia, my distaste for gyms in general, to regularly attend classes at a local gym. My doctor needled, my neighbor importuned and my own guilty conscience nagged me into finally signing up. I hate it. But I go.

As far as salles de sport go, it is a good one. Clean, not smelly, fresh towels at the ready, it offers a gamut of classes terrestres and aquatiques. The class quality is top. I can follow most of the instructions, too, when I can hear them over the effingly, insistingly awful music pounding out. Twistez! Accelerez! Stoppez! Alternez!

How long will this last? It’s doubtful that I will become a gym rat but I am noticing a previously occult muscle peering out here and there so that’s some motivation, until I get hurt.

My other, more recent endeavor, was volunteering as part of the large effort by Democrats Abroad to get out the vote. There are millions of American expats all over the world, and only a tiny percentage vote. Many don’t even know if they are registered to do so. Cue DA and VotefromAbroad.org volunteers. My job was to sit at a table in a popular area for foot traffic surrounded by signage to capture the attention of Americans who might need help getting registered. I heard that the drive is going gangbusters. This is not nothing. In 2016 votes from abroad made the difference in a couple of important states.

As usual, the French are worried that the Republican US candidate will win. But they have their own political problems taking most of their attention. At least now there is a Prime Minister, a center-rightist, which really irks the four-party Leftist alliance which has responded by putting up a disunited, shambolic front against him. Today the PM will announce his policy recommendations and everyone is on tenterhooks, anticipating more demonstrations against the expected social services cuts and tax increases. By demonstrations, I mean what I witness with some regularity, a parade festooned with party flags, music blasting and an angry voice over a megaphone, all of which is over after a few hours.

I’m not trying to diminish the political realities facing France. They are complicated and serious. They risk an unpleasant political future for the country and for Europe. Without feeling complacent, however, I am reassured by the electorate’s behavior in the election earlier this year, wherein the populace voted with a collective mind to block the far right from reaching a governing majority. At that moment, France behaved like a more serious country than some others.

And, former President and Socialist Francois Hollande, possibly France’s most disliked Presidents by the time his term was up, is back as a popular member of the National Assembly and sure to make a Presidential run in 2027. Plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose?

Edinburgh, Scotland 2024

Posted in expat, expat in France, expat life, France, French elections, Nice, France, VotefromAbroad | Tagged | 6 Comments

Les extrêmes

Through the thick air from my open windows, I hear seagulls screech, a newborn’s wail, the blasting of music from someone’s car and occasional outbursts from the denizens of the corner cafe behind my building. During the relative quiet of night, a not so distant train rattles the rails. Ah, the suave sounds of summer.

Last week we had our annual scirocco, the hot, sticky wind from North Africa that dropped dustings of sand everywhere for two days and roiled the sea. It is spent now, and our mornings and evenings this week will be cool. Still, I have my seasonal getaway to less extreme climes coming up in early July, hopefully before the canicules begin.

This summer I will be keeping a closer watch than usual on what transpires in my adopted country. President Macron has called a surprise election for the country’s legislative body, the Assemblée Nationale, and France is confronting, for the first time in modern history, a stark electoral choice of dangerous extremes.

Macron’s own centrist party is way behind in the polls, with the far right, anti-Europe, anti-immigration, socially intolerant party of strident anti-semitic origins, the Rassemblement Nationale, leading with a sizable margin. Just behind is a brand new alliance of leftist parties, the Nouveau Front Populaire, with the most visible of its leaders, Jean-Luc Mélenchon, an anti-semite with autocratic, Stalinist tendencies. What is at stake should either of these political movements assume leadership? For starters, a functioning government, international confidence in the French economy (a pillar of the European Union), the euro, support for Ukraine and Israel, and peace of mind for France’s minorities. Also, democracy.

No one really understands what Macron was thinking when he took this step, and he is now generally viewed as impulsive, hubristic and prone to unilateral decisions. These are the faults that have made him widely unpopular (even though French Presidents are always widely unpopular no matter what). Whatever the results of the two-phased elections on June 30 and July 7, Macron will remain President until his term expires in April, 2027. But he will rule with little power in a set up the French call “cohabitation” with a Prime Minister from whichever of the extremes wins a majority.

I have heard from Jewish French friends that they will leave France if 28-year old leader, Jordan Bardella of Le Pen’s National Rally or the 72-year old Mélenchon become Prime Minister. The fear is that anti-semitism, on a sharp rise in France especially since war in Gaza, will be normalized.

One French friend’s son who was planning to repatriate to France has put those plans on hold.

I’ve also heard that some Americans in the process of buying property have reconsidered.

The question however is this: where is there a clear alternative? It is not a pleasant question to contemplate given a rising tide of right wing populism all over the world. Time was, you could seek to emigrate to the U.S.

One small hope is that Nouveau Front Populaire will have the good sense to nominate a moderate candidate for Prime Minister and steer clear of Mélenchon and his ilk, to draw a majority from the few Macronistes still left and voters reluctant to vote for extremists of either side. The left is unlikely to be anti-democratic, even if its economic plans threaten chaos. With the right, France would get both.

Whatever the outcome, it is clear that people of non-French nationality, including multiple nationals, are increasingly being perceived as a threat to national identity.

For a shard of hope, I look to the UK. Eight years ago, a majority chose the Tories to get the UK out of the European Union. Today, a very large majority accepts that leaving the EU was a big mistake, and the Tories are on their way to electoral defeat. I suppose it is possible that at the end of Macron’s term, his gambit will have worked. After two and a half years of whichever side takes over the legislature, the French might be ready to move back to the center. It’s all I’ve got.

Posted in expat, expat in France, expat life, France, French elections, Nice, France | 6 Comments